As a person that has now spent a decade studying and learning about wine, I have a deep interest in the concept of “terroir.” This is that fancy term that wine people use when talking about a sense of place and everything that affects the grapes and makes them taste the way they do. It’s the climate, soil, topography and all that these things entail. It’s the clay or volcanic soils, the wind, the amount of sunlight, the altitude, and so much more. I’ve explored it in Mexico’s wines. And it’s why Cabernet Sauvignon grown in France’s Medoc tastes different than Cabernet Sauvignon grown in California’s Napa Valley. But what I didn’t realize was the extent to which it affected other spirits. Well now I have Loco Tequila to thank for that bit of new education.
Loco Tequila Background
I had the opportunity to experience the luxury brand that is Loco Tequila, and all I can say is, who knew?! This ain’t no margarita tequila! Situated in the heart of El Arenal, Jalisco, and brought to life in 2019 by three passionate Mexican entrepreneurs and visionaries, Loco Tequila is taking tequila to a whole new level. The vision was to create a refined ancestral tequila by reviving tequila-making methods from the 18th century. The goal? To pay homage to the artistry, creativity and exceptionality of Mexico.
Hacienda La Providencia, a 200-year-old estate with a storied past in tequila production, serves as the home of Loco Tequila. With roots that date back to the 1800s, La Providencia has been recognized for its historic contributions within the “Agave Landscape and Ancient Industrial Facilities of Tequila,” a UNESCO Heritage Site since 2006. Beyond the distillery, the property is undergoing extensive renovations and will feature exquisite experiential hospitality as well as overnight accommodations. It’s all about elevating Mexican hospitality and culture.
The Terroir of Loco Tequila
As it is in wine, terruño aka terroir, significantly influences agave plants, which in turn, affects the flavor and quality characteristics of tequila. Specifically, things like soil, aspect, altitude, and climate help us to understand what we get in the bottle.
Agave grown iron-rich volcanic soils tends to lead to tequila with more delicate floral and fruity notes, while agave in darker sandy, loamy soils trends towards more earth, spice, and herbaceous notes in tequila. Consistent across all soil types is a requirement that the soils have good drainage. Additionally, when it comes to altitude, agave grown at higher altitudes typically means cooler temperatures and more direct sunlight which yields more complexity and concentrated flavors. Just like wine!
The area in and around El Arenal has been designated as an Appellation of Origin since 1974, a classification granted to just five regions of Mexico that produce world-class tequila. Loco Tequila’a agave fields feature limestone and volcanic soils located at almost 4,800 feet in elevation. The soils are fed by spring waters originating from the Bosque de la Primavera, a natural biosphere reserve near Guadalajara. Those waters provide the tequila with an amazing purity and subtle minerality that is conveyed in each sip.
Additionally, the planting of the agave fields are inspired by Colombia’s Los Guachimontones, the unusual 2,000-year-old conical pyramid structures found around the valleys of Tequila. The planting is done in a circular manner with double separation planting aids to minimize soil erosion and ensure a nutrient rich soil.
And unlike other producers in the tequila industry, all of Loco Tequila’s land is situated within a three-mile radius of Hacienda La Providencia. Such proximity means that every piña, from planting the hijuelos (seedlings) to entresaque (selective) harvesting, is a direct reflection of the area’s unique terruño and allows for strict quality oversight of the entire growing process. The proprietary fields are managed by Maestro Agavero and Jimador, José Antonio Sánchez López, whose family has tended the fields for over three generations. monitors the proprietary fields daily. He monitors the fields regularly, and manually selects the plants one by one when they meet his standards for ripeness.
The Art of Creating Loco Tequila
At harvest, José Antonio Sánchez López and his team administers a rare “double jima”, or final shave. They first apply a “short shave” in the field, removing a maximum amount of the agave leaves. The harvested piñas are transported and then undergo a rarely used technique called the “double jima” in which they are again shaved down to fully expose the white flesh, eliminating potential bitterness from the green leaves. After this, the process is in the hands of Loco Tequila Creador and Maestro Tequilero Alberto Navarro.
As the goal is to create exceptional terruño tequila that expresses the authentic and bold flavors of ripe, slowly cooked blue Weber agave, Navarro pays painstaking attention to every detail. For him, it’s all about achieving balanced flavors, that are never masked by the addition of oft used additives or flavors. Navarro is also credited for Loco Tequila’s unique field to bottle process.
To coax a wide range of agave flavor characteristics, Navarro uses both a tahona, an ancient volcanic grinding stone, and a small roller mill to macerate the cooked agave. Additionally, he uses multiple fermentation vessels including cement, steel, as well as wooden tanks, or pipones, that were restored from the historic production facilities of La Providencia. Amazingly, the team at Loco Tequila were able to revive and preserve 100+ year old native yeast strains from the pipones to be used in every batch.
The fermentation process also features double distillation in small batch copper pot stills. To ensure the purest, highest-quality tequila, the Navarro and his team discard significant amounts of “heads and tails” than is typical in the industry.
Pairing Tequila Expressions
Without a doubt, sipping tequila deserves to be on the table with dinner. With Loco Tequila’s recent launch in limited quantities throughout Texas, I had the opportunity to enjoy the tequila as the creators intended – as part of full gastronomic experience. The tequilas were paired with a multi-course dinner created by Chef Luis Roger at the newly Michelin-starred BCN Taste and Tradition.
We enjoyed three Loco Tequila expressions – the flagship Loco Blanco ($145); Loco Ambar, a reposado that spends 6-8 months in barrel ($212); and Loco Puro Corazon, selected from the “pure heart” of the distillation process ($372). These expressions were so smooth and silky, and so elegant. I was struck at the ability to pair with a meal.
Loco Blanco
We paired the lighter Loco Blanco with appetizers featuring Ibérico ham and toasted “pan con tomate”; Spanish octopus served with potatoe puree, olive oil and smoked paprika; and “Patata brava BCN” potato with spicy oil and alioli. The Loco Blanc was also paired with seriously one of the most amazing salads I’ve ever had. Like ever! The strawberry salad featured baby arugula, sweet chili sauce, tortilla chips, cottage cheese, Pedro Ximenez glaze and micro cilantro. The smooth, lithe tequila worked seamlessly and didn’t overpower any of the dishes.
Loco Puro Corazón
The Loco Puro Corazón was paired with grilled wild-caught branzino with avocado, grapefruit, pine nuts and warm mayonnaise foam. The delicacy of the tequila plus the citrus notes in both the tequila and the fish melded together nicely and enhanced each other. There was also a touch of salinity in the tequila which worked beautifully with the crispy fish skin.
Loco Ámbar
As a bourbon lover, I’ll say that the Loco Ámbar really spoke to me with its bit of aging. It was paired with the suckling Ibérico pig “a la Segoviana” with shoestring fries, and “cherry in textures.” Maybe my fave combo of the night, the smokiness in the tequila played nicely with the crispy pork.
The Loco Ámbar played double duty and also was paired with dessert featuring crispy fillo dough with Catalán vanilla brülée and aged rum raisins and a “Gypsy’s arm” sponge cake filled with whipped cream and caramelized custard. The creaminess and richness of the dessert matched the vanilla, caramel, nutty tones of the reposado. Magnífico!
Loco Tequila is seriously changing the game with luxury tequila such as this!
*Cover Image Courtesy Loco Tequila
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