I’ve long told people that I don’t discriminate against any grape. I welcome all grape-comers. But, if you’ve been ‘round these parts for a while, you probably know that I don’t love Sauvignon Blanc (“SB”). There are a few here and there that I appreciate (mostly Sancerre and a few Cali ones), but overall it’s still a wine that I struggle with. And let’s be real, Sancerre prices are getting out of control! But a funny thing happened when I visited Livermore Valley. I had a SB and kinda liked it. Then I had another and liked that one too. And over and over this kept happening. And I was like, “why am I loving the SB out here?” I thought it was just a fluke. But as it turns out, there is some magic (and logic) behind much of the Livermore Valley Sauvignon Blanc. It also tastes pretty darn good in the vineyard.
*Cover Image Courtesy Livermore Valley Wine Community.
Livermore Valley Sauvignon Blanc Has Historic Roots
As I’ve mentioned before, Livermore has given California and America, so many wine “firsts.” It’s actually the oldest wine region in California and brought home America’s first international gold medal for wine at the Paris Exposition of 1889. At the Paris Exposition, almost 14,000 French wines were entered, including the likes of Chateaux Lafite, Margaux, and Haut-Brion entered. So of course, most people expected a French wine would come out on top. But, it was a Livermore Valley Sauvignon Blanc from Charles Wetmore of Cresta Blanca Winery that took the top prize. Coincidence? Perhaps not. Added to that, Livermore Valley was the first to introduce varietal-labeled Sauvignon Blanc. Seems like they’ve been all over SB for quite a while now.
More recently, the Livermore Valley Wine Community designated Sauvignon Blanc as its signature white varietal – along with Cab Franc for red. To be sure the region grows so many things beautifully, but these two varietals seem to reach another level both in terms of performance in the vineyards as well as their historical significance.
In fact, Livermore Valley is in the midst of a project to assess its all of its plantings across the region, which will provide better insight as to how much they actually have. But there are certainly several vineyards that have SB Musqúe, including Darcie Kent / Almost Famous, McGrail Vineyards, and Concannon Vineyards. And it’s quite telling that Las Positas Vineyards (home of the ethereal Verdelho), which currently does not have any SB, is about to graft .6 acres of their vineyard to Musqúe SB any day now. SB is definitely getting its due in Livermore!
Sauvignon Blanc Clones Make a Big Difference
So ok, why did so many of the Livermore Valley Sauvignon Blanc wines speak to me? As I learned, much of it has to do with the specific SB clone. OK, so bear with me for a second. I’m a tax geek, not a scientist, but I needed to understand what the deal was with the Livermore Valley Sauvignon Blanc.
Wine grapes are known for mutating, which results in a number of new clones of the grape. While the clone is genetically identical to the original, these mutations result in various different traits in the grape clones. The clone could be fruitier, or be more disease resistant, or maybe it ripens earlier. Whatever the different trait, a grower may be drawn to it for a number of reasons. One of the grape varieties that is notorious for mutating is Pinot Noir. It has countless clones – most of which add something distinctive to the wine. To be sure, the right clone in the right place matters. It’s actually what made Willamette Valley Chardonnay reach new heights.
While there are several Sauvignon Blanc clones, what they all have in common is the hallmark acidity for which SB is known and that this acid head very much appreciates. I learned that there were two primary clones in Livermore Valley Sauvignon Blanc that I was drawn to.
The first is the OG, Clone 1 aka FPS 01. This is the original clone that was planted in the region in the 1880s. The vines were brought to the U.S. from France’s famed Chateau d’ Yquem in Bordeaux, France. This SB is aromatic (as SB usually is) and known for the “green” characteristics that many associate with SB. Think grassy, herbaceous, vegetal, and even lime notes. This is what I usually do NOT like in SB. But in warmer spots in Livermore, the grapes get a little riper and begin to take on more stone fruit (peach apricot) and tropical fruit characteristics. The “green” is still there, but it isn’t overwhelming. I found that I loved the balance and all the “extra” characteristics of these wines.
The other SB that I was drawn to comes from the Sauvignon Musqué clone. The “musqúe name is actually a reference to what we can expect. It means that the grape is perfumed (musky is not a bad thing in this instance!) and has similarities to the Muscat grape, both signs that the clone is highly aromatic. Like so many things wine, it originated in France and came to the U.S. in the early 1960s. Like Clone 1, it also hails from Bordeaux. And while it is thought to be the second most planted clone in California, its acreage pales in comparison to Clone 1. But there is some in Livermore y’all!
The musqué mutation of SB typically results in wines that offer up more floral and tropical fruit notes. Generally speaking, the wines come across as rounder, creamier, with more texture on the palate. But the acidity is still there. These wines stopped me in my tracks and I had to keep making sure I was drinking SB. I loved them! So much peach and apricot and passion fruit and cantaloupe and orange blossoms and…you get the point. All that super fresh fruit, but still with pops of citrus and acidity. No green here!
OK, so that’s it for my science lesson!
Livermore Valley Sauvignon Blanc to Try
I have been fortunate to try so many wonderful Livermore Valley Sauvignon Blanc wines. Here are a few that resonated with me.
Darcie Kent Vineyards – They make 3 – all with the musqué clone. You can’t go wrong with any, though the Pistachio Lane may have edged out the other two – just barely.
Rosa Fierro Cellars – all stainless steel and so refreshing and crisp with yellow, opal apple vibes. Love when those apples are available in the fall.
McGrail Vineyards – mostly stainless steel with 10% neutral oak, with a nice balance of acid and richness along with juicy peach and apricot.
Fenestra Winery – such a great tropical vibe with guava, mango, and even a little papaya all balanced by crispy acidity. This one walked an amazing tightrope and did it well!
Wood Family Vineyards – all stainless steel, but still such a smooth mouthfeel, presumably from all the lees stirring. Ripe ruby grapefruit, guava, and a little lemon zest.
Cellar 13 Winery – they just started making SB and wow! A blend of stainless steel and barrel-aged SB for great fruit and texture. Like, this gave me everything I want in a SB!
Mitchell Katz Winery – They call their SB “Sunshine” and I’m not mad about it. Literally sunshine in a bottle with vibrant lemon and a touch of pineapple.
Retzlaff Vineyards – I previously did a tasting at Retzlaff and out of all the wines I had, the Sauv Blanc was my fave! Known for the pioneering work in organics, their “old vine” SB is racy, clean, and full of juicy pear.
Whatever the clone, the Livermore Valley Sauvignon Blanc wines are consistently fresh, zesty, vibrant and oh so refreshing. And much delightful to drink!
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