Yes, we know and love Uruguay for its Tannat. I know I’ve waxed poetic about it on a number of occasions. They are, after all, the folks that made this Southwest France grape a star. But if you think that’s all there is to Uruguay’s wine industry, think again. Uruguay white wine is definitely worth exploring. I was so surprised (almost shocked) that such fresh, vibrant white wines could be made in a country known for its bold, robust red wines.
Uruguay’s Unique Climate
Uruguay’s climate is best described as subtropical, with mild winters, hot summers, and rain throughout the year. Of course, this makes us think of steamy, warm, humid areas. But lest we forget, about a third of Uruguay has an Atlantic coastline. And it is the ocean proximity that provides significant influence on the grapes that are grown here.
Specifically, the Malvinas current (also called the Falkland current) comes up from Antarctica, bringing with it a cooling influence to Uruguay’s Atlantic coast. The cold water current flows northward all the way to Uruguay’s Rio de la Plata and results in a maritime climate similar to the likes of Spain’s Galicia or France’s Bordeaux. This cooler climate is what provides winemakers the ability to craft amazing Uruguay white wines. To be sure, most of the wines come from areas along Uruguay’s Atlantic facing regions. This has led many to reference Uruguay’s white wines as “Atlantic Fresh.”
In addition to the cooling Malvinas current, the Rio de la Plata, which separates Uruguay from Buenos Aires, provides significant geological characteristics to Uruguay’s wines. The river contributes to the varied soil profiles found in Uruguay’s vineyards, which provides winemakers with many options for wine profiles. It’s actually really cool that there are white wines being grown along the Atlantic. When you think about it, we have lots of grapes being grown along the Pacific (including all my CA Central Coast peeps), but not too places have the soil opportunities along the Atlantic that Uruguay does.
Uruguay’s White Wines
While there aren’t significant volumes of white grapes plated in Uruguay (particularly when compared to Tannat) the numbers are trending upward. More and more, winemakers are taking advantage of the country’s “Atlantic opportunities” and experimenting with different white varietals. Ugni Blanc (aka Trebbiano) leads the way in planted acres, but a significant portion of it is distilled into brandy rather than used for wine production. When it comes to grapes used for wine, Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, and Chardonnay are the most planted in that order. After that, there is a significant drop off in planted acreage when it comes Viognier and Riesling, the next two most plated varieties. But all are certainly showing promise. When I think about it, I’ve had much more Viognier than Chardonnay from Uruguay.
While there is still more Sauvignon Blanc planted than Albariño, the latter seems poised to become the prominent Uruguay white wine. Albariño recently surpassed Chardonnay to become the second most panted white wine variety, and is certainly the wine that folks seem really excited about. Very few white grapes can take on humid conditions, but Albariño certainly has that ability. When thinking about Albariño from Uruguay, I believe it can definitely hang with Portugal’s Alvarinho and Spain’s Albariño.
A Few Uruguay White Wines to Try
When it comes to Albariño, I was so pleasantly surprised by the versatility. Certainly not one size fits all. If ever there was a wine to convert Chardonnay fans, these wines may be it. For a textural delight, try Bouza Albariño ($28). The vines for the wine were sourced from Spain’s Galicia and a kiss of oak provides richness to balance the lithe, lean delicacy for which Albariño is known.
For an Albariño with a little “oomph,” the Familia Deicas Atlántico Sur Albariño ($20) fits the bill. More robust with more pronounced fruit, it can stand up to heavier fare. Think grilled swordfish, tuna steaks, or even roast chicken. Bodega Garzón’s ($35) single vineyard Albariño shows the belief that vintners have in Albariño’s ability to take prime billing. After just nine months of being sold in the U.S., sales of their Albariño surpassed their very popular Tannat. This reserve wine is a beautiful balance of bright acidity and delicate melon fruit with a kiss of salinity. Yep, fish is a no-brainer, but a fried pork chop with this one would be divine! I’ve heard that the Japanese are even pairing it with Kobe beef.
Beyond Albariño, the Los Cerros de San Juan Familie Lahusen Riesling ($25), which was made in amphora, gave me some serious Austrian Riesling vibes. These wines tend to be more savory than what I think of from Germany or Alsace. A unicorn for sure. Incidentally, Los Cerros de San Juan was the very first winery I visited when I visited Uruguay and started this blog. And yes, my writing has improved over the years!
As the most planted white grape, Sauvignon Blanc has a unique profile in Uruguay. It’s very different from the green, grassy, cat pee Sauv Blanc that we associate with New Zealand. Uruguay’s humidity and soils seem to offer up punchy, salty, mineral driven wines that this acid head appreciates. Y’all know I don’t love Sauv Blanc, but I so appreciated the Familia Traversa Sauvignon Blanc ($16).
Winemakers in Uruguay are even experimenting with Viognier. And it’s so different from the waxy, floral versions we get from other regions. Here, in the Progreso Overground Viognier ($26), as has shown up in other wines, there is a savoriness and salinity to the wines, along with Viognier’s typical richness. Thai food all day with this one!
I’m so thankful to the folks at Uruguay Wine for the opportunity to learn more about and explore Uruguay white wine. Always learning… Seems like I may due for a Uruguay re-visit.
*Cover image courtesy Uruguay.Wine Facebook.
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