If you’ve been ‘round these parts for a while, you know that my love of Cali’s Central Coast wine regions just keeps going up and up and up. Santa Lucia Highlands, Santa Rita Hills, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, Monterey, Santa Cruz, and more. There are 40 regions in the Central Coast, so lots of deliciousness to explore. And now I can include Livermore Valley Wine Country to my Central Coast love fest. I might even be a little obsessed!
Livermore Valley has a Storied History
After not really being in the know (save for an article I wrote on Phil Long of Longevity Wines) I was finally able to see first-hand about what I’d been hearing from folks about Livermore Valley wine country. Part of the Tri-Valley area (along with Amador Valley and San Ramon Valley) in San Francisco’s East Bay, Livermore Valley has a tremendous wine history.
I was shocked to see that Livermore Valley was responsible for so many wine ‘firsts.’ It is the oldest wine region in California and won America’s first international gold medal for wine at the Paris Exposition. I’ve always heard so much about the so-called 1976 Judgment of Paris wine competition where Chateau Montelena’s Chardonnay and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon shocked the world by beating out top French wines in a blind tasting. Certainly an important, watershed moment that set American wine on the path it is today, but who knew that Livermore Valley wine had upstaged the wine world a century prior?
Back at the Paris Exposition of 1889, Livermore Valley was flexing and showing the world the excellence of American wine. With almost 14,000 French wines entered, in addition to another 5,000 wines from French colonies, and the likes of Chateaux Lafite, Margaux, and Haut-Brion entered, it seemed pre-ordained that the French would win the wine competition. But, it was a wine from Charles Wetmore of Cresta Blanca Winery, in Livermore, California that won the top prize. That wine just happened to be a Sauvignon Blanc and as it so happens, Livermore Valley was the first to introduce varietal-labeled Sauvignon Blanc. Talk about OG Sauv Blanc!
Livermore was also the first to label varietal Chardonnay and Petite Sirah. What’s more, Livermore Valley is also the basis for much of the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon in the U.S. Around 80% of California’s Chardonnay and Cab Sauv vines trace their genetic lineage back to Wente and Concannon clones propagated there. If you’re interested in how Livermore gave us our beloved Cabernet Sauvignon, be sure to check out my article on discovering the OG Livermore Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
So yes, the Livermore Valley wine region gave America an amazing wine foundation.
Livermore Valley is Full of (Affordable) Charm
Just 45 miles east of San Francisco, know that getting to Livermore Valley wine country is easy – and full of options. You have 3 airports from which to choose – San Francisco, Oakland, and San Jose – to get you close to the action. For my trip, I flew into San Jose (yay smaller airport!) and flew out of San Francisco.
And I fell in love with what await me. It never ceases to amaze me how much I love these charming towns out west. To get to the wineries, both the cities of Pleasanton and Livermore provide a great base. I absolutely loved the very charming Pleasanton, which was my home base to explore the region. I stayed at the luxurious boutique hotel, The Rose Hotel, that was located in the heart of Pleasanton’s downtown historic district. Pleasanton was once a Wild West hideout that’s now filled with tons of charm by way of great eateries, retail therapy, art galleries, and outdoor activities.
I spent time in the town of Livermore as well, which had no shortage of tasty eats and fun stuff to do. Where Pleasanton is more laid back, Livermore had a little more going on as well as more of a modern vibe, but still exuded charm. Both towns were approachable, unpretentious, and quite welcoming. I imagine it’s what other, now larger wine regions maybe started as. I instantly added both towns to the list of places that I wanted to return with Mr. Corkscrew.
In addition to charming you, Livermore Valley will not bleed your wallet dry. Yes, the price of everything is going up, but I was shocked when I saw a stat from the 2023 Direct to Consumer Wine Survey by the Silicon Valley Bank that showed that the average retail price of wine in Napa Valley was $108! Ouch! And given that prices at the winery tend to run a little higher (due to the service component when visiting), I imagine the average price from the actual wineries is a little bit more. The same data indicates that the average “regular” tasting at a winery is $81, with a “premium tasting” coming in at $128. And you haven’t even eaten or laid your head down at your hotel! In contrast, typical tasting room fees in Livermore Valley usually fall in the $10-40 range.
Now, I’m not picking on Napa (much), but the wines I tasted in Livermore Valley provided ridiculously amazing quality at a fraction of the cost. I was truly blown away with the quality wines I tried that I knew nothing about! I will take this type of more affordable and low-key wine trip any day!
Livermore Valley Winery Options
One of the things I was struck by in Livermore Valley was the sheer diversity of experiences – and grapes! Whether you want rustic charm, all the shiny things, tiny boutique producers, or those with a national reach, you’ll find it here. And that comes from just ~50-ish producers. Small, but mighty! And there was a little bit of everything to taste. Wines from classic Bordeaux varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc to cooler-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were available. I seriously had no idea about the versatility, not to mention all the different microclimates capable of growing so many different types of grapes. And probably my favorite thing about Livermore Valley wine country is that it’s full of family-owned wineries.
A few wineries I encountered include the following:
Murrieta’s Well
Named after Gold Rush-era bandit Joaquin Murrieta who discovered the property’s artesian well, Murrieta’s Well is a boutique, artisanal brand that is a part of the Wente Family Estate. This is one of California’s original wine estates (it was started w/ cuttings from France’s Chateaux d’Yquem & Margaux) that has grown grapes since the 1800s. I loved that the 1800s barn is still there. Fave wine: Estate Cabernet Franc.
Las Positas Vineyards
I absolutely did not expect to be wowed by an extensive (and award winning) lineup of Verdelho. But that’s exactly what I encountered at Las Positas Vineyards. Go for the wine, and stay for the food. They have an amazingly talented chef — and we all know food enhances wine. Pro tip: the pork belly tacos might change your life ! Fave wine: Eek! All the Verdelho & the Garnacha.
Cuda Ridge Wines
At Cuda Ridge, owner and winemaker Larry Dino is all about crafting small-lot, limited-production Bordeaux-style wines. Cab Sauv fans, you will not be disappointed at these amazing wines that offer great QPR at a fraction of the cost compared to the neighbors to the north. Fave wine: Melange d’ Amis – a nod to Bordeaux’s Right Bank with Cab Franc, Merlot, and a smidge of Petit Verdot. I’m always Team Right Bank when it comes to Bordeaux!
Concannon Vineyard
A visit to Concannon is like a visit through history. Founded in 1883, Concannon is home of the Concannon Clones 7, 8, and 11, which helped California Cabernet achieve stardom. It was really cool to see the historic old ‘mother vines’ as well as taste some delicious Cab Sauv from those vines. Concannon is also home to America’s First Petite Sirah. Fave wine: Estate Reserve Petite Sirah.
Pruett Farms Winery
As a Chardonnay gal to the core, I so appreciated Pruett Farms’ emphasis on their estate Chardonnay. Even better that Bob Pruett crafts it in a way to appeal to a variety of Chardie fans. More oak and opulence? Yes, there is a Chardonnay for you. More Burgundian in style? Me! And yep, it’s there. Prefer bubbles? He has you covered there too. Not to worry red wine fans, as Cab Sauv and Syrah are also available. And how cool is it that a visit to the winery gets you up close and personal with cuddly dogs, alpacas, horses, and chickens. Fave wine: ‘Burgundian’ Chardonnay.
Wood Family Vineyards
Established by Rhonda Wood, a former commercial pilot (and so much darn fun!), Wood Family Vineyards started as a garage hobby and has now established itself as a producer of exceptional, handcrafted wines. Rhonda is all about food and wine and that food-sensibility is evident in the wines. The portfolio mostly features Bordeaux varietals along with a sprinkling of Rhône. Fave wine: Cabernet Franc.
JMC Cellars
Owner and winemaker of JMC Cellars, Jessica Carroll, has my attention! One of the newer kids on the Livermore block, she’s been making wine commercially in Livermore for over ten years, and now has her own label to showcase her talents. I love her varied portfolio that includes the likes of Grignolino, Teroldego, Alicante Bouschet, Peloursin, and more. I was so taken with her Grenache that it made my ‘Most Memorable Wines of 2024’ list. And her Syrah was an honorable mention. Fave wine: Grenache – of course!
Retzlaff Vineyards
Owner Salomé Garu-Taylor is seriously living in the type of place I’ve envisioned in my post-tax lawyer, retirement dreams. Quaint, laid-back, and welcoming. She’s also cool as a fan! Retzlaff Vineyards are pioneers and the epitome of family dedication to certified organic winemaking. For over 40 years, the Taylor family has been crafting wines without chemical intervention – way before it became popular with the cool kids. The vineyard was planted on the site of a former sheep ranch and as a result, the soil had never been farmed and no pesticides or herbicides have ever been used on it. Fave wine: Sauvignon Blanc. And this is from a non-Sauv Blanc fan.
3 Steves Winery
3 Steves is a boutique winery founded by, you guessed it, three friends named Steve. The winery is renowned for its high-quality, handcrafted wines and has a litany of awards to prove it. A visit to the winery will offer up those panoramic views of vines and sweeping hillsides that we all love. Visitors can also take advantage of their extensive picnic area complete with corn hole, as well as food truck options on the weekends. Fave wine: Cabernet Pfeffer. Cab Pfeffer was completely new to me but I loved its aromatics as well as its ability to take a bit of a chill.
McGrail Vineyards
McGrail Vineyards is a family owned winery specializing in Cabernet Sauvignon. And what an extensive portfolio of Cab Sauv that they have. In fact, only a few years after opening their winery, their Cabernet Reserve won the Best Red Wine in the United States in the lauded San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Cab Sauv whisperers for sure! And what amazing QPR these Cabs offer. I had a $49 Cab Sauv that would likely sell for $150 from elsewhere and that could absolutely go toe to toe with any Cab Sauv. Fave wine: Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.
Page Mill Winery
With origins in the Santa Cruz Mountains in 1976, Page Mill Winery moved to Livermore Valley in 2004 and is known for its commitment to making handcrafted wines using sustainable practices. The sign stating “BYOB – Recycling is good, Reusing is better!” tells you a lot about their mindset. And I’d dare say owner and winemaker Dane Stark is mad gifted! I loved everything that touched my lips! Go for the wine and stay for the charming patio area. As for the BYOB, its a monthly event where you can bring your rinsed empty bottles and they will fill them with a delicious red wine for around $11. Hard to beat that. Fave wine: San Francisco Bay Pinot Noir. Who knew that such a lithe, lean, elegant Pinot could be had here?!
The Growing Importance of Cabernet Franc
I was thrilled to learn of Livermore Valley’s embrace of Cabernet Franc. #CabFrancLoverInTheHouse. For some, it stands to become the region’s signature varietal. Chief among them is Steven Kent Mirassou of Steven Kent Winery, who is absolutely bullish on this and has been carrying the Cab Franc banner. He co-founded CabFranc-A-Palooza, a 3-day celebration of all things Cab Franc, which I had the pleasure of attending. During one event, we did a “blind smelling” of Cab Franc’s characteristics and during another, we compared Cab Franc wines from different regions around the world, including a Cab Franc from Texas! I even got to taste a Cab Franc Blanc from Steven Kent Winery which was a textural delight! Please make more!
Given so many delicious Cab Francs that I enjoyed in Livermore, I absolutely believe it can be the star of the region. It makes perfect sense to embrace something that grows beautifully in your region and that has adapted so well to your changing climate (which surprisingly seems to be getting a little cooler!). And duh! It’s a better food wine than its Cab Sauv offspring as well. Plus, when I think about the stranglehold that their neighbors to the north enjoy with Cab Sauv (albeit at a much higher price point) it makes good business sense to differentiate yourself and show what makes you special. I. Am. Here. For. Every. Drop.
Plus, this event gave me the opportunity to meet IRL someone I had been talking to for years on Instagram – Kristy Wenz of Kristy’s Wine Travels.
Livermore Valley Food
It’s not wine country if there’s not great food, and Livermore Valley can definitely hold its own. And I love that so many of the restaurants support the local wineries and offer up plenty of Livermore Valley wine.
Since cheese is the soulmate of wine, a stop at The Cheese Parlor is a must. Whether you opt for the cheese boards or grab one of their sandwiches, your taste buds are in for a treat. Even better that they feature many local cheeses and tons of local wines and beers. They even do flights of cheeses paired with wines. #Winning.
Beyond cheese, Locanda Wine Bar in Livermore and Locanda Amalfi in Pleasanton offer mouth-watering, authentic Italian dishes served with a side of Italian hospitality.
And Sons of Liberty Alehouse is a tavern that manages to be both upscale and stylishly casual. Of course the beer is impressive, but the cocktails, wines, and seasonal dishes are also worth checking out. And as a Texas girl and brisket snob, I’ll have to give them props on theirs.
And don’t forget the above-mentioned Lounge at Las Positas. The food is as memorable as the wine!
Livermore Valley Wine Country certainly captured my heart. It was such a treat to experience it, and I’m thrilled to be part of the people shouting from the rooftops how amazing a region it is!
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