White Wine Made from Red Grapes Make for the Perfect Winter White Wine

A recent snow event here in Houston (yep Houston!) got me to thinking about what makes for a good winter white wine. Sure, I love a hearty Syrah or Tannat (Texas has some amazing ones!) in the cold winter months as much as the next person, but I still very much want my white wine as I really do drink it year round. But while, as a self-professed acid head, I love Grüner Veltliner, I don’t often reach for it during the cooler months as it tends to be leaner and lighter. More often than not, I’m looking for a white wine with some body to it. Think a nicely (not over) oaked Chardonnay, a Viognier, or even Chenin from Vouvray or South Africa. But recent experiences with red grapes made into white wines got me to thinking about their texture and how they really do fit the bill for a great winter white wine.

My Houston snowman and I enjoyed Teutonic Riesling that was chilled in the snow. I mean how often do I get to utter this phrase? The Riesling got its pink hue from being pressed with Pinot Noir skins. That Barnaby Tuttle is quite the mad winemaker – and I love it!

In case you didn’t know, typical red wines get their color from the skins of the grape. I share this because I’ve discussed this fact with many folks who don’t realize it. So now I always try not to assume. At any rate, the vast majority of red grapes have clear flesh inside and don’t begin to take on color until the juice comes into extended contact with the skins. There are a few of exceptions – so called teinturier grapes that have red flesh inside – such as Alicante Bousquet from my friends in Alentejo, Portugal.

These days, it seems that I keep seeing more winemakers making white wines with red grapes. Instead of allowing the skins to soak in the juice to take on color and tannin, they just press the juice from the grapes and proceed with the usual white winemaking process. Gimmick? Not really when you think about it in the context of champagne. Champagne is made from red grapes Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier along with Chardonnay. You’ve likely encountered a ‘Blanc de Noir’ wine which means “white of black” – essentially a white wine from black grapes. But while this style of winemaking is quite common for sparkling wines, it’s certainly not as common for still wines. Could that be changing?

Years ago, the first wine I had like this was a white Pinot Noir from the folks from Left Coast Estate. And while it was fine and I enjoyed it, I didn’t go searching for more. But recent experiences with white Merlot from Teutonic Wine Company and Cabernet Franc Blanc from Steven Kent Winery in Livermore Valley really got my attention. The thing that really stands out with these wines is the texture. There’s a weightiness – more medium bodied as opposed to light-bodied – and unctuousness to them. Additionally, there is almost a sensation of tannins accompanied by lively acidity common to many of these wines. True textural marvels.

So why not just drink the Chardonnay? And y’all know I loves me some Chardonnay. It’s kinda the same reason you don’t eat chicken every day. It’s boring. And I find it so interesting that these winemakers want to discover and showcase the sheer diversity and all the nuances in their favorite varieties. When I hear someone like Steven Kent Mirassou get damn near weepy when describing a wine, how can I not get exited too?! “Cabernet Franc is the most dynamic, alluring, sexy, and delicious grape around,” he says. Well OK!

Winter White Wine to Try

Want to try some still blanc de noir wines? Here are a few I’d recommend:

Teutonic Wine Company “Dangereuse d’Aquitaine” White Merlot, Columbia Gorge, OR $35

Steven Kent Winery Cabernet Franc Blanc, Livermore Valley, CA $35

C.L. Butaud Blanc de Noir Mourvèdre, Texas $48

Two Shepherds Bechthold Vineyard Blanc de Cinsault Ancient Vine, Lodi, CA $30

Domaine Carneros Pinot Clair White Pinot Noir, Carneros, CA $49

Matthias Hager Zweigelt Blanc de Noir, Kamptal, Austria $22

Trivento White Malbec Reserve, Mendoza, Argentina $12

Cheers to thinking outside the white wine box. And fingers crossed that wineter sticks around a little bit longer.