I’ve generally done a pretty good job of keeping ‘Corkscrew Concierge’ life separate and apart from #LawyerLife. Occasionally I’d see a few “office-associated” folks at events, but would smile, say hello, and move on – very much determined to keep the worlds apart. I mean, what if I cut up and it got back to the office?! Just kidding, I’m a professional damnit! But I recently blurred the lines when I was asked to present a series of Moldovan wines as part of a fundraiser that one of our executives (who is Moldovan) had put together in support of United Way.
I was excited to learn about a wine culture I knew absolutely nothing about. And to be honest, I got to learn something about a country that I couldn’t even pick out on a map. But I can now! And who knew there were even that many people in my office from Moldova?! Plus, this may shock some of you (LOL!), but I can come off as having a bit of an “edge” and people seeing my wine alter ego seemed to make me seem a little more approachable. They better not get too comfortable though…
A Little Moldovan Wine History
The first thing I did when I agreed to present the wines, was consult a map to see here the heck Moldova even was. I learned that Moldova is a small landlocked country in Eastern Europe, nestled between Romania and Ukraine, and was formerly a Soviet republic. With around 2.5 million people, it’s not a huge country, but has a rich wine history.
OK, yes, I also did a test run to taste some of the wines (including some traditional snacks) with some work colleagues.
While geographically it was the smallest state of the former Soviet Union, it had the second largest land under vine behind Ukraine – which I also did not know. The country is blessed with varied terroir rich with forests, slopes, rocky hills, and plains that feature lignite, phosphates, gypsum, and limestone. And while landlocked, its proximity to the Black Sea provides a moderating influence in the region. Overall, Moldova has a continental climate with moderate winters and warm summers. And if you look closely and flip it upside down, the country seems to be shaped like a grape cluster.
Wine in Moldova dates back to between 3000 and 5000 BC, which makes it almost as old as Georgia at 6000 BC. For context, wine in France dates back to around 500 BC. Many of the vineyards are located around 47 degrees latitude, which is similar to where France’s Bordeaux and Burgundy sit. Not surprisingly, the Greeks and Romans provided significant influence on Moldovan wines, particularly between 300 BC and 107 AD. The region’s wines really began to flourish in the 15th century and continued well into the first half of the 19th century. Back then it was all about native varieties as well as some nearby local ones from Hungary, Greece. and Turkey. Things began to shift in the second half of the 19th century when significant amounts of French varieties were brought in and planted, and that’s still where we are today.
A Snapshot of the Moldovan Wine Industry Today
Moldova’s economy was built on farming, and that includes wine grapes, which is a big part of the economy as well as the country’s the culture. In fact, Moldova has the largest density of vineyards in the world. Many families in Moldova make table wine for their own enjoyment, in addition to what is produced and sold for retail or export.
Wine is so ingrained into Moldova’s culture that there is even a National Wine Day celebrated every October in the nation’s capital, Chisinau. So revered is the event that it was recently honored by the prestigious Wine Travel Awards in the category of Wine Tourism Events, and specifically recognized as the “Magnet of the Region.” The recognition of Moldova’s National Wine Day underscores the event’s significance and its growing influence in the global wine tourism landscape. The event has evolved into a vital attraction, drawing enthusiasts from around the world to experience the rich wine heritage of Moldova.
The country is home to over 150 wineries, ranging from small boutique operations to large-scale producers. For years, the Soviet-influenced emphasis was all about mass production and low-quality. But things are changing. Additionally, the Moldovan wine industry has historically been dominated by a handful of large producers including Cricova and Milestii Mici. But that too is slowly changing as newer, smaller producers are entering the fold and bringing unique ideas and innovation, as well as an ability to adapt to wine trends quicker. Think orange wines, rosé, and sparkling wines.
Moldovan Wines Entering the Spotlight
To be sure, the industry seems to be getting its footing and heading in the right direction. Led by the ONVV which is the National Office of Vine & Wine, the organization has spearheaded a public-private partnership that is designed to support marketing and growth of the industry as well as ensure compliance with European wine law. I love that there are doing this as support for emerging wine regions is so essential. I’ve personally seen the work that organizations like the Austrian Wine Marketing Board and Wines of Georgia do to promote their wines.
And the work seems to be paying off as the last decade or so has seen significant strides in quality, propelling Moldova to become the most awarded country in Eastern Europe at international competitions. Moldovan wines have received record recognition at international competitions, amassing over 6,000 medals. One award that really caught my eye was the Métier Brut Nature from Radacini winery that was named the World’s Best Cabernet at the prestigious “Concours International des Cabernets” competition in Anse, France. It’s a traditional method sparkling white Cabernet Sauvignon. I definitely have to try to find this unicorn!
And a couple of Moldovan wine fun facts: Moldova is in the Guinness Book of Records for having the largest wine collection in the world (nearly 2 million bottles), stored below ground at a depth of 80 meters (262 feet) in the underground wine cellars of Milestii Mici (“meh-lest-tie mee-chi”). Apparently the cellars go on for 125 miles! And nearby Cricova winery also has an extensive wine cellar located in an extensive network of underground tunnels that stretch for about 75 miles at a depth of 300 feet. The Cricova cellars are home to The National Vinotheque, an amazing collection of legendary wines that house extremely special bottles (around 1.3 million) including the likes of rare Bourgogne, Mosel, Tokay, and more. The oldest wine in the collection and the only bottle of its kind in the world, is the wine Easter Jerusalem, which was produced in just one batch in 1902.
Planted Grape Varieties & Wine Regions
Grape Varieties
OK, so what grapes show up in Moldovan wines? There are over 30 varieties planted, with white wine making up 2/3 of production and reds making up the remaining 1/3 red wine. Most of what is planted are so-called international varieties – around 70% – which is a holdover from the changes that occurred in the 2nd half of the 19th century. Typical red wines feature Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Gamay, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and even Tempranillo. For white wines, you’ll encounter Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Traminer, and Muscat.
Outside of international varieties, regional Caucasian varieties (generally Gerogian) make up about 14-16% of production with the rest made of local indigenous varieties. The numbers are fuzzy, but the plantings generally fall in this range. There’s word that the newer producers are bringing a greater commitment to making wines with local varietals. I really do hope this is true. We have enough folks in the world making Cabernet Sauvignon. When I drink Moldovan wines, I want to taste Moldova including the native white wines like Feteasca Alba “Fa-teaska alba” and Feteasca Regala along with red wines like Feteasca Neagra and Rara Neagra.
To be fair, it has not always been easy to get folks to drink wines they don’t know or can even pronounce. Some winemakers have taken the opportunity to blend native and international varieties together as a way to slowly introduce consumers to the local varietals. But it also seems that younger wine drinkers tend to be more open to drinking indigenous wines and in fact, want to experience the local, authentic wines of a region. Climate change has also been a contributor to countries going back to their native varieties as that is what has flourished there, with the varieties being more resistant to whatever the local environment throws at them. So here’s hoping…
Moldovan Wine Regions
Moldovan wines are sourced from 3 winegrowing PGI, aka Protected Geographical Indication, regions:
Codru – The largest and most important region, it is located in the middle part of the country and stretches from east to west. Grapes can be found growing on hills and in river valleys in limestone soils. Codru is generally a warm area, but also has numerous forests and higher elevation areas that provide varied microclimates making it possible to make lighter style red wines, as well as white and sparkling wines. The region has drawn references to Bourgogne, which isn’t too shabby! White grapes account for nearly 2/3 of planted grapes with Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Aligoté, Muscat Ottonel, Rkatsiteli and Feteasca Alba leading the way. For red wines, you’ll find Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir.
Stefan Voda – Located in southeast Moldova near the border with Ukraine, the region is flat and warm, with humus rich black soils. Here bold red wines can be found, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon as well as significant amounts of Chardonnay – which together make up half of the region’s plantings. After that, expect to find Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Rara Neagra and even Malbec. The most famous producer in the region is Purcari.
Valul lui Traian – Located in southwest Moldova on the Romanian border, the vines here are located at higher altitudes with terraces and hills and planted in volcanic, rocky soils, similar to what you’d find in Bordeaux. The region also draws influence from the Black Sea. Expect more structured and intense red wines with the likes of Merlot, Cab Sauv, and Fateasca Neagra taking center stage. For white wines (Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay) expect to find fresh and lively wines with great acidity.
Moldovan Wines We Tasted
I can absolutely say that there aren’t oodles of Moldovan wines lining the shelves. But luckily, we were able to find several wines from Yiannis Wine Shop, which had the most extensive selection that I was able to find on short notice. The event also featured some traditional Moldovan bites to go along with the wines. And I did a recent looksy at Total Wine and was thrilled to see that they have a few more Moldovan wines in stock.
Wine 1: NV Cricova (“KREE-kova”) ‘Crisecco’ Spumante Brut Rose ($15)
From one of the most storied producers in Moldova (one of the ones with those massive underground cellars) Cricova is the country’s largest producer of sparkling wine in Moldova. They make all sorts of sparkling wines including a recently introduced sparkling Meunier even make some red sparkling wines. I was thrilled that this wine for our tasting featured 90% Feteasca Alba and 10% Merlot. The wine was made in the Charmat/Tank method, which is the method used for Prosecco. Hence the cheeky name. This method plays well to Feteasca Alba, which is known as an aromatic white. Lots of berries, wildflowers, green apple. Perfect to pair with the sun, fresh fruit, or even dessert.
Wine 2: Radacini Wines ‘Taking Root’ Pinot Grigio ($17)
Established in 2010 and one of the newer kids on the block, Rădăcini Winery is a modern producer known for blending traditional winemaking techniques with sustainable, innovative approaches. The name “Rădăcini,” meaning “roots” in Romanian, and reflects the winery’s commitment to its local heritage and the deep-rooted winemaking traditions of Moldova. They produce a wide range of wines, including red, white, rosé, and sparkling varietals, made from both indigenous Moldovan grapes as well as international varieties. A typically light and somewhat crisp Pinot Grigio with citrus, lemon, and pear. There was also a touch more roundness in the wine than I expected.
Wine 3: Domaine La Prut Sauvignon Blanc ($20)
Domaine La Prut is owned by an Austrian oenologist, whose family has been making wine since 1924 in Austria. The estate is located in a great place in western Moldova on the Romanian border, along the Prut River which gives some ancient soil material to the vines and also moderates the temperatures. They are known as much for the apple orchards as their grapes and apparently make some pretty good cider as well. A look at their portfolio shows that they produce wines exclusively made with international varieties. The wine for our tasting 100% Sauv Blanc and sourced from the Codru region. It really seemed to be a combo of what you’d get from New Zealand SB (gooseberry, citrus) and Cali SB (tropical, apricot, kiwi). The wine for those salads and asparagus.
Wine 4: Chateau Purcari Freedom Blend ($20)
The Château Purcari Freedom Blend is a special wine created to honor the spirit of freedom and solidarity among nations. It was created by Château Purcari, one of Moldova’s oldest and most renowned wineries in 2014, not long after the annexation of Crimea. Purcari describes it as an outcry against Russian military aggression, which included prior annexation of areas from both Moldova and Georgia. To that end, the wine is a unique blend that represents all 3 countries by including indigenous varieties from each country – Bastardo (Ukraine), Saperavi (Georgia), & Rară Neagră (Moldova). Profits from the wine are donated to the Ukrainian war effort – reason enough to raise a glass. But it’s also quite tasty. It fared quite well and was also a favorite of many attendees. Inky and robust with stewed blackberries, a hint of vanilla spice, smokiness, and smooth tannins. I would absolutely bring this to the BBQ for some saucy ribs!
Wine 5: Chateau Vartely Individo Merlot/Cab Sauv Blend ($20)
Our last wine of the evening was from Chateau Vartely, which was recognized as Winery of the Year in 2023 in Moldova. If medals are your thing, know that they’ve won many. During my research, I saw pics of their chateau online and it is stunning! As far as the wine, it’s a classic Bordeaux blend featuring Merlot and Cab Sauv, with around 70% of the fruit sourced from Valul lui Traian and 30% from Codru. An informal polling showed that this was a favorite of many of the attendees. Lots of complexity and tasty to drink. White, as well as some green pepper on the nose and really smooth going down with cinnamon spice, smokiness, black plums, tobacco. It was a wine that just kept giving throughout the time I was drinking it. And while we were able to get our hands on this particular Bordeaux blend, they do have several lines that feature native varietals.
This was such an eye-opening experience and a great opportunity to learn about an entirely new-to-me wine region. And I’m told we’ll probably do it again as a fundraiser, so I will definitely be on the lookout for some exciting Moldovan wines.
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