I remember a few years back when folks were like ‘September is California Wine Month,’ I rolled my eyes and sort of smirked. Like, why would California need to have a month’s long celebration to promote its wines when they make the most wine and people overwhelmingly drink California wines. But then I got to thinking about how I’ve discovered so many smaller regions (like Santa Lucia Highlands or Livermore Valley) that turn out great wines, but don’t necessarily get the press that folks like Napa, Russian River, etc. get. So then I saw California Wine Month as an opportunity to showcase what other regions in the state are doing. One of those under the radar regions is the Knights Valley American Viticultural Area (“AVA”).
A Little Background
The area that we know today as Knights Valley was previously known as Mallocomes Valley – a Mexican land grant holding of Jose de los Santos Berryessa. The region was later renamed for Thomas B. Knight, a New England immigrant that participated in the Bear Flag Revolt – the 1846 revolt by American settlers in Mexico-controlled California. During the revolt, the settlers took control of the garrison of Sonoma and declared an independent Republic of California by raising a white flag displaying a grizzly bear and star. As a result, we now have the cool Cali flag with the bear on it.
Located in Sonoma County, Knights Valley is actually one of Sonoma first 5 AVAs. The region officially became an AVA in 1983. Yet despite its long history – and excellent wines – it remains a relatively rural and remote area and sort of flies under the radar compared to other regions that surround it.
Situated between the Mayacamas Mountains and the base of Mount St. Helena, Knights Valley is the easternmost part of Sonoma County and is adjacent to Napa. Today there are more than 30 growers and 2,000 acres of vines located throughout Knights Valley.
Why Knights Valley is a Special Place for Wine
Given its mountain location, Knights Valley benefits from volcanic soils aged somewhere between 2.6 and 8 million years. The original path of the Russian River used to run through the area until Mount St. Helena erupted and changed the course of the river, raising the Knights Valley floor in the process. And if you’ve been paying attention, us wine folks loves us some volcanic soils.
Volcanic soils are typically full of minerals (e.g. iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium) which provides wines with nice acidity (needed for balance) as well as great structure. When we talk about “minerality” in wine, it’s often because the grapes are grown in soils rich in minerals and we get these stone, wet rock, etc. characteristics. That “minerality” provides wines with a sense of brightness and freshness, but also adds to the complexity of wines. Additionally, volcanic soils are generally porous with great drainage. Because of the drainage, the vines don’t get waterlogged – it’s actually just the opposite – the wines don’t get a lot of water and the roots dig deep in search of water. This sort of stresses the vines, which causes the vines to really “focus” giving us more concentrated, flavorful grapes.
Knights Valley is also quite sunny and warm. In fact, it is one of Sonoma County’s warmest wine-growing regions. Though it’s not very far from the Pacific Ocean, the surrounding mountains protect most of the region from direct ocean impact. But the area does get some modest cooling from the Pacific as well as from its higher elevation. Overall the region experiences warm days and cool nights. The combination of the region’s soils as well as its weather patterns helps to provide a balance of ripeness and acidity in the grapes.
The Wines of Knights Valley
Given its warmer locale, Cabernet Sauvignon ripens easily here and dominates the production in the region. But producers also make other red Bordeaux varietals such as Merlot and Cabernet Franc, as well as Syrah. When it comes to white wines, beautiful expressions of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay also crop up.
But to be sure, Cab Sauv is king. So why would you choose a Knights Valley Cab over that of neighboring Napa? Well for starters, some of the wines can be more affordable than those of its neighbors to the east. But beyond that, Knights Valley Cabs tend to be refined and restrained when compared to wines from Napa’s floor (the mountain wines are a different animal altogether). The Cabs here tend to show more elegance and structure, with earthy and mineral (thanks to those volcanic soils) characteristics, while Napa Cabs are known for being bolder, richer, and more fruit-forward. Lean vs. opulent. Earth vs. fruit. Higher acid vs. lower. More structured tannins vs. softer tannins. Like anything in life, of course, there are always exceptions, but to me, these seem to be the distinguishing factors, particularly when talking about wines from Napa’s valley floor. These characteristics of Knights Valley Cab Sauv also means the wines have the ability to age well.
Notable Knights Valley Producers
You can’t mention Knights Valley without talking about Beringer Vineyards. In fact, Beringer was one of the key players in the region becoming an AVA. A couple of years ago, I had dinner with Beringer head winemaker, Ryan Rech, and what a revelation.
During dinner, we tasted through both Beringer’s Napa and Knights Valley wines. Who knew how much I’d enjoy the Knights Valley wines?! And at around $35 for the “regular” Cab and $70 for the Reserve, these wines drink way above their price points.
Ryan’s Beringer career began in 2016 where his primary focus was initially on making the Knights Valley wines. For him, this region has always been special. “Knights Valley really is a hidden gem,” he says. “It’s sort of like a secret place, but one that really is an important part of the Beringer portfolio.” And it’s been a key part of their offerings for years.
Given Beringer’s deep and historic Napa ties, it’s interesting that their first single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon didn’t come from Napa – it actually came from Knight’s Valley way back in 1972. It’s such a special region that Beringer increased its holdings in the region from its original estate. With their increased fruit haul in the region, Ryan has been able to make single vineyard Knights Valley wines and add them into the Beringer Reserve portfolio.
Beyond Beringer, several producers from other parts of Northern California have fruit in the region. Ehret Winery’s family estate, Bavarian Lion Vineyards, is located in Knights Valley and is one of the largest in the region. Only 500 acres of the vineyard’s 1,800 acres is planted to grapes, allowing an ecosystem of plant and birdlife to flourish in keeping with their certification from the California Land Stewardship Institute.
Other producers with significant holdings in Knights Valley include Arrowood Vineyards and Donelan Family Wines. Other notable producers that make wine with in the region’s fruit include Freemark Abbey, Duckhorn, Melka, Morlet, and Chateau St. Jean.
When it comes to wineries that are actually located IN Knights Valley, there are just two – Peter Michael Winery and Knights Bridge. I can’t recall having wines from Knights Bridge, but seeing their recent state-of-the-art facility that features a grand barrel cave, custom concrete tanks, and a tasting salon with floor-to-ceiling windows, I’m ready to visit. And taste! But I can certainly share that I love, love Peter Michael wines, including their Knights Valley Les Pavots Cab. Ok, but just let me throw it out there that this is not one of those “affordable” Knights Valley wines that I mentioned. But it’s so damn good!
I do hope you’ll take the opportunity to explore some lesser-known California wine regions, including Knights Valley. These are wines that have such distinct characteristics and deserve a spotlight of their own. Why not grab a bottle from Knights Valley and one from Napa and compare/contrast?
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