If you’ve been around these parts much, you know that I am a BIG fan of Pinot Noir. It’s literally the varietal that got me into wine. All those years ago having that chance glass of Etude Pinot Noir from California’s Carneros wine region is the reason I am here today sharing my love of wine. Yes, I realize the former may be a run-on sentence, but let’s go with it. Since then, I’ve come to love so many Pinots from around the world. But in the last couple of years, California Pinots have been coming at me fast and furious. There are so many regions cranking out delicious Pinots Noir. You’ve heard me go on and on about Pinots from of course Carneros, Santa Lucia Highlands, Santa Barbara and all of its sub-regions, Russian River, and more. Well now, I’m adding Anderson Valley Pinot Noir to the list.
What & Where
The Anderson Valley AVA is located in Mendocino County, California just north of Sonoma and abut 100 miles from San Francisco. Known as a cool-climate region, it’s pretty much on the northern edge of California’s wine-growing region. At just a mile wide and 16 miles long, here it’s all about the influence of the Pacific Ocean. The region sits about 10 to 15 miles from the Pacific, which is a big influence on the climate. Anderson Valley vineyards get the benefit of cool coastal fog which helps to moderate temperatures. While days can get warm after the fog blows off, the area tends to cool off quickly once the sun sets. This leads to a significant diurnal temperature range (i.e. the difference between day and night temperatures), which means an extended growing season and concentrated, complex flavors. That means quite happy grapes.
In addition to the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean, the ocean also prevents the are from getting too cold. A win-win from the ocean influence. The region’s vineyards also enjoy some elevation, ranging from 200 to 2,500 feet, which further contributes to the region’s cool climate characteristics.
Anderson Valley features many family-owned wineries and there is a strong focus on sustainable viticulture. To be sure, many vineyard owners practice organic or biodynamic farming. For me, that’s always a win. I also like that it has more of a laid-back vibe. Quaint small towns, scenic beauty and tasting rooms that welcome with open arms.
The Grapes
Anderson Valley’s cool climate is particularly well-suited for growing, you guessed it, Pinot Noir. Additionally, Pinot’s vineyard buddy Chardonnay also grows well here. Other planted varieties include aromatic white wines like Gewürztraminer, Riesling, and Pinot Gris. And if you like bubbles, some amazing ones are produced here. In fact, many producers in the region specialize in traditional method sparkling wines, often using the classic varieties of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The region’s cool climate provides these wines with vibrant acidity, which this acid head loves. But I’m here to talk about Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, which so happens to make up over 50% of grapes grown in the region.
Anderson Valley Pinot Noir to Try
Overall, given the cool climate locale, Anderson Valley Pinot Noir tends to be lighter and more elegant than some of its neighbors to the south. Here, vibrant fruits and bright acidity is the name of the game.
Littorai
Littorai is a plural derivative of the Latin word Litor, which means “the coasts” and this is a producer that absolutely celebrates the north coast of California – the coastal mountains of both Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. I almost feel silly saying that anything from Littorai is “under the radar,” but I do feel that sometimes their Sonoma Coast wines upstage their Anderson Valley/Mendocino production. No facts or figures, just a hunch. At any rate, Ted and Heidi Lemon have given us a renowned, small, family-owned and operated winery that produces world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Ted’s wine education began in France and he is the first American to ever be hired as winemaker and vineyard manager of an estate in Burgundy. So it’s no surprise that he makes some killer Pinot. For Ted, there is no substitute for low yields, careful site and vine selection, and the absence of all additives. All told, they make Pinot from six Anderson Valley vineyards. My first experience with their Anderson Valley Pinot Noir was from the high-elevation (800-1,110 ft) Cerise Vineyard and I was hooked! They are one of the few producers from whom I try to grab an annual allocation.
Maggy Hawk
Practically synonymous with Anderson Valley, Maggy Hawk is located in the northern half of Anderson Valley in what locals call “The Deep End.” The flagship Maggy Hawk vineyard is located in an area surrounded by redwoods, shrouded in a thick fog, and literally one of the last things you see before reaching the Pacific Ocean. Within the vineyard lies a patchwork of Pinot Noir planted in no shortage of aspects, slopes, and clones, all of which give us a dizzying array of wines and an introspective look into Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. It’s not an easy environment to grow grapes to be sure, but all the struggle is what makes these wines so special and concentrated.
That strength and greatness extends to proprietor Barbara Banke’s champion racehorses. In fact, the name Maggy Hawk celebrates a winning thoroughbred. Each wine in the series is named for a horse born to Maggy Hawk: Jolie, Afleet, Stormin’ and Unforgettable, and to her sire, Hawkster. Pinot Noir is also sourced from their nearby, and slightly warmer Edmeades Vineyard. It’s always a treat to savor the unique expression that these wines offer up – unfined, unfiltered, with varying degrees of whole bunch fermentation and such a vibrant purity of fruit whether on the lighter, silkier end of the spectrum or something that offers up a little power. It’s all good.
WALT Wines
Helmed by Kathryn Walt Hall, who is also the proprietor of both HALL Wines, WALT Wines has been a mainstay in the California wine industry since the 1970’s. Having had a distinguished career as a successful businesswoman, attorney, community activist, and as the United States Ambassador to Austria, she’s back on the wine side of things. I love that she has been dedicated to social issues, including issues related to hunger, social care, and mental health.
When it comes to wine, WALT is dedicated to the production of premier Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from some of the Pacific Coast’s most distinctive vineyard sites, including Sta. Rita Hills, Sonoma County, the Willamette Valley, and Anderson Valley. I’ve had several of their Pinots and am a big fan of the ones from Anderson Valley. In fact, Anderson Valley Pinot Noir features quite prominently in their portfolio. Their wine philosophy is all about crafting precise, non-intervention wines so that the wines can show their true varietal character. The Anderson Valley Pinot Noir wines tend to offer up riper, red fruit flavors accompanied by the region’s hallmark bright acidity.
Crosby Roamann
Founded in 2006, Crosby Roamann is a boutique family winery producing sophisticated, small production, hand-crafted wines in Napa Valley. Proprietors Sean and Juliana McBride created the winery with the goal of making distinctive, small-lot, terroir-driven wines, ensuring wines that truly exhibit a sense of place. That dedication to sense of place (i.e. terroir) has lead Sean to collaborate and seek out partner vineyards outside of his estate that provide the specificity and sustainable viticultural practices that he treasures. Enter two sublime Anderson Valley Pinot Noir wines sourced from vineyards that are biodynamically farmed.
The Old Saint George vineyard Pinot Noir is grown on 70-year-old St. George rootstock on clay silt loam and offers up blue and black berry fruit along with mineral, herbs, and a touch of smokiness. The Fiadh Vineyard is a bit warmer, yet still offers a distinct freshness. “Fiadh” means “wild” or “untamed,” and I’d have to say the wine gives you a bit of that. Brambly wild berries and untamed earthy characteristics (think mushroom, fresh earth, and graphite) are front and center, and co-exist seamlessly with a light-bodied elegance in the wine.
Of course, I’m just touching the tip of the iceberg. Like Crosby Roamann, there are many producers that source Anderson Valley Pinot Noir as part of their larger portfolio. Producers the likes of Copain, Kosta Browne, Failla, Rhys, Williams Selyem, Cakebread and more all produce Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. The next time you’re wine shopping, grab a bottle of any Pinot from the region, and see what you think. And if you’re into sparkling wine, Roederer Estate crafts excellent bubbly from the region.
**Note: Cover Image Courtesy of Anderson Valley Wines
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