Sustainable. Biodynamic. Organic. Regenerative. Regenerative Organic. Natural. Every time I look up, there seems to be some new, better way of farming. And that doesn’t count terms that may apply to the actual winemaking process, the entire operation, or just the wineries themselves. Think LEED, SIP Certified, LODI Rules, and more. So much to keep up with which can led to a lot of confusion. To be sure, there are some “sustainable” initiatives that get me giddy. I particularly like the ones that encompass the welfare of workers and seek to uplift the communities in which they operate. More and more, I’ve been seeing info on regenerative organic farming so I thought it was time to educate myself. These farmers are doing ridiculously amazing and exacting work in the vineyards. I mean, who knew that reduction of carbon emissions was even a part of this? In my #LawyerLife, I’ve had the chance to work on clean fuel initiatives like carbon capture and sequestration, sustainable aviation fuel, renewable diesel, battery components for electric vehicles, and so much more. So I was thrilled to see such efforts related to vineyard farming. And I’m here for it! Because without sound farming, where would we even be with the wine?
The Vocabulary of Sustainable Vineyard Practices
Before we dive into regenerative organic farming, let’s sort out a few terms that you may have encountered.
Organic
Organic viticulture means that the farmer grows the grapes in a manner that adheres to established organic farming principles. In the U.S., participants are governed by, and must meet the standards of the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) National Organic Program in both farming and production, as well as meet requirements set by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau. At its core, organic farming is about using natural processes and resources and promoting biodiversity in order to limit the use of synthetic products in the vineyards.
To achieve these objectives, farmers seek to promote the health of the soil by using things like compost and green manure, reduce the need for synthetic chemicals by using mechanical processes like mowing, mulching, or hand-weeding, and manage disease and pests by using natural predators, beneficial insects, and organic-approved products such as sulfur and copper. Additionally, biodiversity, which encourages a diverse plant and animal ecosystem within the vineyard to create a balanced environment, is a core component of organic viticulture. Think cover crops and crop diversity, buffer zones, encouraging predatory insects to control the “bad” pests, as well as bringing in animals like owls or bats to control unwanted pests. At the end of the day, the goal is to maintain a healthy ecosystem by avoiding synthetic chemicals and focusing on natural inputs and processes.
Biodynamic
Biodynamic viticulture takes a more holistic and spiritual approach to grape growing, but also encompasses some organic farming practices such as biodiversity and soil health. This method of farming views the vineyard as a self-sustaining, interconnected, living ecosystem where everything, including the soil, plants, animals, and humans, all play a role in the health of the entire system. Here, it’s all about balance and harmony within the vineyard ecosystem.
Biodynamics involves the use of “biodynamic preparations” that are made from herbs, minerals, and animal manures and applied to the soil and vines to enhance soil fertility, stimulate plant growth, and strengthen the vineyard’s resilience. I still remember the first time someone explained preparations using cow manure buried cow horns to me. Definitely something I’d never even heard of! Biodynamic viticulture is also closely aligned with the lunar and cosmic calendar. Vineyard activities such as planting, pruning, harvesting, and application of the biodynamic preparations are timed according to the phases of the moon and the positions of the planets. The thought is that the moon and other celestial bodies influence the growth and development of plants. It kinda reminds me of some of the stuff you find in the Farmer’s Almanac. Demeter is the primary certifying body for biodynamic agriculture.
Sustainable
If there was ever a word overused in wine, it just may be the word “sustainable.” It’s used so much that it’s almost coming to mean nothing. When we hear about so-called sustainable wine regions or sustainable wineries, it’s natural to wonder what we as consumers are really getting. More and more, it’s being used as a broad umbrella under which a lot of different initiatives are encompassed.
Whether we’re talking sustainable, natural, biodynamic, regenerative, vegan, organic, no sulfites, and on and on, there are some core values that reaches across all of these. Sustainability at its core is about employing processes that protect the environment, maintain economic viability, and foster social responsibility. Each of the popular initiatives out there support one or more of these values. Farming using organic or biodynamic practices focuses on the environmental prong. But of course, this is the tip of the proverbial iceberg. Things like energy and water conservation, worker protection, relationships with local communities, air and water quality, preservation of wildlife and local ecosystems, and more are all involved in sustainable wine practices. I have loved seeing so many individual wineries and regions as a whole embrace sustainability in its various forms. For a deeper dive, you can check out one of my articles on sustainable wine regions.
Regenerative
Regenerative farming seeks to restore and improve the health of ecosystems through practices that regenerate the land and capture carbon in the soil. The focus is on rebuilding soil organic matter, increasing biodiversity, and water retention with the goal of creating a more resilient agricultural system that benefits the environment and combats climate change. If you’ve NOT been living under a rock, then you probably know that there are global initiatives to try to limit carbon output as well as incentives to actually capture and sequester carbon from the atmosphere.
Like organic and biodynamic farming practices, regenerative farming has a goal of improving the soil and increasing biodiversity, but with some notable differences. Similar to biodynamics, there is a holistic approach to the farm where crops, livestock, and natural habitats are approached in an integrative manner to create a self-sustaining ecosystem. But where biodynamics incorporates spiritual and cosmic practices, regenerative farming is more science-based and not necessarily tied to a specific philosophy or set of spiritual beliefs. Similarly, where organics is more rule-based and focuses on specifically what can and cannot be used in farming, regenerative farming is more process-oriented, looks at the long-term ecosystem health, and may allow the use of synthetic chemicals when appropriate.
Broadly speaking, regenerative farming offers more flexibility and adaptability when compared to organic and biodynamic farming. Common regenerative farming techniques include crop rotation, cover cropping, reduced or no-till farming (tilling releases carbon into the atmosphere), composting, agroforestry, holistic grazing, and integrating livestock into cropping systems. The idea is to work with natural processes to build soil health over time, rather than depleting it.
Regenerative Organic
So what the heck is regenerative organic farming? Well, as you may have guessed, regenerative organic farming is a specific subset of regenerative farming that combines the principles of organic farming with regenerative farming practices. So basically you have the goals of regenerating the land and capturing carbon combined with the rules of organic farming, i.e. no synthetic chemicals, GMOs, and use of natural inputs and processes. In other words, this method of farming is a LOT of work and truly a labor of love. It seems to perhaps be the best of all worlds and shows how organic farming and regenerative practices can co-exist harmoniously to create a truly sustainable and resilient agricultural system.
Regenerative organic producers can seek certification under labels such as Regenerative Organic Certified (“ROC”) from the Regenerative Organic Alliance (“ROA”). The ROA is fairly new and was established in 2017 by a group of farmers, business leaders, and experts in soil health, animal welfare, and social fairness. The certification ensures compliance with both organic and regenerative standards and includes strict controls on inputs, animal welfare, and fair labor practices. I was thrilled to see that labor standards were included in this certification. To be truly regenerative, the ROA requires a system to consider all players in the farm system — from the soil microbiome to the animals to the workers. For them, farmers are the stewards of our lands, and with the power of regenerative organic agriculture, can completely change the direction of our future. A mission I can get behind.
Who’s Doing Regenerative Organic Farming
OK, so who’s working this hard to give us some fantastic regenerative organic wine? It’s a small, but slowly growing club. At last count, there were less than 20 vineyards in the world with the certification. Those with ROC status can be found in several places including California, Oregon, Austria, Chile, and Argentina.
Donum Estate, Carneros, California
Located in my beloved Carneros, THE region that got me into wine, Donum Estate is a leader in single-vineyard, single-appellation Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Northern California. Everything they do is grounded in their belief that they are stewards of the land and that for the vines to yield a true expression of the land, you have to begin with healthy, living soils. To that end, they have achieved organic certification of several estate vineyards by the California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF) organization and ROC status by the ROA.
Their regenerative organic farming practices include livestock integration (sheep, chickens and ducks) which reduces the need for tractor passes and aides in pest management, biochar application which increases water holding capacity, organic matter and nutrient availability, and the use of cover crops in combination with compost to sequester carbon dioxide and reduce GHG emissions by 60%. These are folks that truly want to nurture the natural ecosystem and there is nothing that I don’t love about their approach to winemaking. I did a Zoom tasting with some of the Donum team recently and was blown away by the purity, vibrance, and concentration of the wines. Carneros for the win – again!
Domaine Bousquet, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Argentina
Long one of my affordable wine secrets, Domaine Bousquet was the fourth wine estate (and the first outside the U.S.) to earn ROC status. But being organic has always been at the heart of what they do. Over 25 years ago when they planted their vineyards in the barren landscape of sand and stones that was the untamed terroir of Gualtallary in Tupungato within the Uco Valley, they knew then that it was the ideal climate and soil conditions for nurturing organic vines. For them, it was a natural choice and the thought of resorting to synthetic chemical products in their soil management was never a consideration.
Owned and managed by husband-and-wife team Labid al Ameri and Anne Bousquet, Domaine Bousquet is Argentina’s largest exporter of certified organic wines and ranks among the top five organic wine brands sold in the U.S. Their unique business model allows them to craft quality wines at ridiculously affordable prices. I’ve enjoyed so many wines from them over the years (including lots of pink this summer) and the wines consistently drink above their price points.
Truett-Hurst Winery, Dry Creek Valley, California
I didn’t even know what regenerative organic farming was when I visited Truett-Hurst winery. I just loved the wines and all the animals. But winemaker Ross Reedy provided an in-depth explanation of all the amazing practices being employed at the property. While today they are certified organic and biodynamic, in addition to regenerative organic, things were not always like this. When the owners purchased the estate, it had been conventionally farmed for decades. Even the topsoil had been sold off and what “soil” was left was quite depleted, with virtually no life. But they kept their eyes on the prize and today have a vibrant estate that is full of life (including all the animals). Between the gardens, goats, sheep, chickens, hawks, and the endangered fish habitat, I loved seeing all the pieces of the whole.
With the estate vineyard planted with old vine Zinfandel, Zin is certainly a star here. To be sure, TH has an amazing selection of Zin in its portfolio that showcases how multifaceted and nuanced Zin can be. And while Zin is king, I loved the Petite Sirah (some of which is old vine and estate planted), which also figures prominently at the winery. This was definitely one of those places where I just wanted someone to adopt me and let me live there.
Troon Vineyard, Applegate Valley, Oregon
Located in southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley, Troon Vineyard was the second winery in the world to receive the Regenerative Organic Alliance’s certification. They are also Demeter certified biodynamic. Basically, they do all the stuff. With all of my visits to northern Oregon wineries I definitely need to set my sights further south next time.
Troon produces amazing, low-intervention wines made with grapes traditionally grown in the Rhône Valley and other parts of southern France, including Grenache, Syrah, Tannat and Vermentino. In addition to the traditional stuff, they have a fun and unique portfolio that also features pet-nat, piquette and orange wines. These have actually been some of my faves from them. To be sure, they are standouts in the Oregon wine industry. In 2022, Troon was one of five nominees for Wine Enthusiast’s American Winery of the Year award. In fact, Southern Oregon, which includes the Applegate Valley, was in contention for Region of the Year. Another reason why I need to get over there to visit.
Tablas Creek Winery, Paso Robles, California
Tablas Creek was the OG, the very first vineyard in the world to obtain ROC status. For them, regenerative agriculture has the possibility to be part of the solution to addressing climate and resource issues. A partnership between the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel and the Haas family of Vineyard Brands, Tablas Creek was founded in 1989 in Paso Robles.
Pioneers of the California Rhône movement, they chose Paso Robles to plant their vines due to the fact that the climate there was conducive to Rhône varietals the likes of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Roussanne. The vineyard was planted with cuttings imported directly from Château de Beaucastel and has been organic since the very beginning, followed by the implementation of biodynamic practices in 2010 and obtaining ROC status in 2020. Through it all, they have always been at the forefront of sustainability and have focused on maintaining soil health, biodiversity, and ecological balance, with practices such as composting, cover cropping, and the use of sheep for weed control and fertilization. They also implement water conservation techniques and solar power in their operations. As for the wines? They are the people that first made me believe in Paso.
It’s truly eye opening to see what these producers are doing. Whenever I think of things like carbon capture and sequestration, I think of oil, gas, and chemical companies and airlines that are looking to increase their usage of sustainable aviation fuel. It never occurred to me that these efforts even related to wine. But now I know. The above represents producers whose wines I’ve enjoyed and who are practicing regenerative organic farming. To learn about other producers, be sure to check out Regenerative Organic Alliance.
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